#CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL HOW TO#

I'm new to this and don't know how to attach pictures yet.

but rear brakes typically only supply less than a third of the braking on a vehicle. (Does eyesight use this braking device? if so that may explain why rear pads wore out twice as fast as front pads). it should also back off a little when you release the parking brake. and only have to rotate a little to tighten the pads, but as pads wear it keeps rotating to stay really close. it will slowly over time keep rotating like a screw to tighten the piston in as the pads wear out. My assumption is this appears to be the way Subaru has done the same thing with an electrical tightener. because the mechanical parking brake had to make a mechanical connection to lock the pads,not hydraulic. that rotated to tighten over time as you applied the handbrake, and you had to buy a tool to rotate the caliper a lot to unscrew the mechanism inside the caliper.

they had a mechanical device inside the calipers. but i ran into a similar situation years ago working on our SAABs that We Rallied in the 80's & I did graduate as an engineer 50 years ago. but do not tighten it all the way snug before putting the electric assembly back on. i hope the eletric tightener adjusts itself once reinstalled, or else i got really lucky and rotated it the proper amount.

#CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL FULL#

i backed it off full tight more than 1/8th turn before putting the back of the electric assembly and tightened the cap bolts again. Since I did not want it tight against the pads. Then after installing the pads and putting the caliper back on I pushed on brake pedal a couple of times to get the caliper piston to tighten the pads, THEN I turned the shaft the opposite direction of loosening until it stopped.

#CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL INSTALL#

( that retracts it all the way) It rotates several turns and will evidently bottoms out so you can push the caliper cylinder all the way back into the caliper so you can install new pads. and first twisted the shaft one way, and it only went probably less than 1/8 turn before it got tight and then twisted opposite direction all the way until it stopped. You loosen it, or back it off the piston by twisting it CLOCKWISE, or opposite of normal way you would tighten something. I had a 12mm star or Torx type socket I put over the bolt and I really did not need to use the ratchet, but using the socket gave me enough extra leverage that i just twisted the socket to tighten and loosen it. Try to do this in a clean environment since there is some grease inside, and you don't want to introduce much dirt. It will expose what looks like a big torx or star bolt. and i took the rear part off by twisting slightly while pulling it off, then the whole electric assembly comes loose and you get to the back side of the mechanical brake actuator. The 2 bolts holding the rear part on ( part with the 2 prong electrical connection) can probably be removed by 5mm hex wrench by hand. It is held on with 2 cap screws which can easily be removed with 5mm hex wrench. if you look at the device you see the cap bolt ( silver color shown holding the rear electric part to the piston part. I changed rear pads on 2017 legacy with the electric parking brake yesterday and it had the device shown attached to the back side of the caliper.

Caliper compression tool